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Springfield Terminal Car #10 continued
page 2 of 2
Trolley Boards: The next item is to add the trolley boards,
trolley bases and hooks. Typical trolley boards are approx 1
foot wide, and the cleats that hold them to the roof are 2'' x
3'' x 29'' long. These have a small radius to contour
them to the roof. These are usually placed onto the car roof
ribs, which generally line up between the clearastory windows.
Paint the cleats and trolley boards prior to assembly.
Lay out the trolley poles to help decide
where the bases should be located. On this model, the pole
wheel assembly is placed over the car end, so the wheel
assembly of the pole is about even (vertically) with the end of
the car bumper. After drilling the holes for the bases at each
end, then make the boards and make some relief in them for the
base post, and then glue these down to the roof onto the
cleats.
Add the trolley hooks and insert the pole
+ bases, and set this aside. The trolley hooks should be
slightly offset, so if you have two cars close together in your
yard or carshop / carhouse, the poles do not hit each other.
The offset should be the same direction for all your rolling
stock.
Extra Window: Splicing
the extra windows in. After removing the Bachmann combine car
body from the basic frame, and doing the same to the Bachmann
coach, carefully measure the window openings, and very
carefully cut into the coach so that the wooden car side would
meet up between the windows. Finish the cut just below the
window ledge and then use an exacto knife to cut under the
ledge. You want to keep the ledge under the window to use as a
guide in lining up the window on the combine.
Carefully measure out and make and mark
lines to follow on the combine. You might cut things a little
short and gently cut and file to make the new window fit. Too
big of an opening, and you’ll have some patch work to do.
Once this is cut and the window fit, glue the windows in.
You may have a little sanding and filing to do to make these
look correct once installed. This is a good time to add some
paint to the car shell, both inside and out.
CAR FRAME AND PLATFORMS
Option 1
Remove the screws that secure the car
seats and floor. Set these aside.
In making the new car end platforms, the
end bumper should be longer in distance than the car roof. In
other words, if you measure the entire roof and the entire
frame separately, the car frame should be longer then the roof
section by approximately 1 scale foot or 6 scale inches at
either end.
The floor of the new ends should be made
of 1/16'' plywood. Use the car roof to draw an outline onto the
plywood. (see photo). Once this section is cut out, carefully
reduce the thickness of the plywood only where the original car
platform remains. The car end platform should also be cut down
and made square to the frame. The overall length of the
original platform will be reduced. Cut the end (or forward)
edge of the steps off. The steps remaining on the frame will
hold the new steps in place.
Two notches were also cut into the
underside of the original end beams so that two new framing
knees could be added for overall strengthening of the platform
area. Two small wooden stringers were added, approx 1/4'' x
1/4'' x 3.5'' for platform strength.
Option 2
LRP is
currently working on producing resin car ends, plus a new floor
section to add onto your Interurban Car. (See
details LRP #011)
Seating: The
seats. Remove the seat and floor section from the car. You will
need to add two seats from the other car from which you removed
the window. In this model, the seats should have a slight rake
to them. The ones that come with the combine and coach are
straight. Looking at the back side of the seats, estimate where
the back and the seat cushion would meet, and cut a slot or
actually a small wedge shape out. Press the seat back,
backwards towards the cushion, add some glue once you have the
seat back at an angle. You need to clamp these down while the
glue sets up (or a heavy weight). Modifying the seats in this
manner takes a while.
If your car is going to be running or
operating in two directions, you may want to make one set of
seats face the opposite direction. On this model, one set faces
one way, the other side of the aisle, the other way. LRP will also be
offering rattan (LRP
#022) type seats soon, so you can replace all these
molded seats with something nicer.
Trucks: This
car originally had a Taylor truck under it. Presently, these
are not available, so the option is to use LRP #012, the ALCO
trucks. The original bolsters have been cut away, as the ALCO
truck takes more room under the car. Building new carbody
bolsters from wooden strips that run accross the body were made
( 3/4'' wide by 3/16''). Once the locations for the trucks are
identified by being sure the trucks will have plenty of room to
swing to clear the now present steps, these can be glued into
place. Later the bolster plate can be centered and glued into
place as well. The trucks can be secured to the car. Be sure
they are secure, and that they cannot fall away while the car
is being handled.
Next installment: car ends, couplers, steps and interior details.
Click the forward icon below to continue to
the next model
project.
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Photos above and below, show completed
roof with trolley cleats, boards and trolley base + pole
installed.
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Spare coach from which windows were
removed. Photo below shows one window spliced into the final
model.
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Above shows rough cut plywood on left
having used the roof radius as a template.
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Above and below show end platform with
step edge removed and new floor installed.
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LRP #012 ALCO Truck assembly with some
weathering paint applied.
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© Light Rail Products
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