Hartland “Sparky” Locomotive continued
Kit-Bash Project -- Part Two
page 3 of 3
Details Products used:
Paint-Frame -- Engine Black by Floquil
Cab exterior -- Reading Green by Polly Scale
Roof -- Rock Island Maroon by Polly Scale
Kadee Couplers 821 or 921 (921 is painted red)
Trackside Details TD-46 Brake valve
Continuing with
the Kitbash of “Sparky” the electric locomotive: Cab,
hoods, frame…
Cab and Hood details
18. The interior
of the cab was outfitted with some small wooden strips to outline the
“framing” of the cab walls, window frame area and door
jams. V grooved siding (left over from another job) was placed
horizontally in the cab, below the front windows. The cab was painted
in the same red color as the roof, although the cab of our model has
seen some service, the paint did not cover 100% of everything, leaving
some streaks here and there. Be sure to test fit the roof occasionally
for proper fit.
19. The work
continued with the hoods. Making these two hoods, when all glued
together, be as true to each side as possible took some patience. One
end took several tries to make it look right. Even then, when one of
the hoods was placed on the car frame (deck) it still was not flush
with the deck. One glue joint was again broken, and reset. Only this
time, after applying the glue, the hood was set in onto the frame, and
held in place with a rubber band so it would be straight in the end.
And it worked.
20. Two small
modifications were made to the frame: One was to cut off the eighth
rounded (flywheel?) from the frame between the two journal boxes. The
second was to fill in the small indentations where the original
“Sparky” handrails were attached. Make this flush. A small
piece of thin wood was used to fill in, and then modeling putty to fill
the small gaps. Sand and paint.
20. This would
also be the time to decide where the headlights should be placed. These
were placed in the center, just under the window. (The headlight
placement came later, which caused some other grief.) Bore or drill out
the holes for the headlight.
The other consideration on where the is placed,
is clearance for easy removal of one of the hoods for servicing the
batteries. Since the hoods were originally held in with some clips on
the front of the hoods (which were kept) the one hood that will hold
the batteries will need to be easily removable for servicing the
batteries.
Having the headlamp in the area now causes some
clearance difficulties with the hood for servicing the batteries. The
latch tab, that would help to hold the hood firmly in place, was cut
down. If you cut this down (not totally off) your hood will be some
what held in place by gravity, and so care will need to be taken when
lifting and servicing this locomotive after this!
21. Since these
headlights (LRP #007) will be battery powered, the batteries will be under
one of the hoods. In usual practice, triple A (AAA) batteries are used.
However, the hoods are just a little too short for these to fit. So two
“N” (1.5 volt) batteries are resorted to for powering the
headlights. There is clearance for two of these under one of the hoods.
The on/off switch location has not yet been determined at this
writing). The battery holders were glued into the deck.
22. This is a good
time to add the couplers to each end. Kadee #821 were used. Recently, Kadee came out with a new
product #921, which is an #821 painted red. The original
“Sparky” coupler has been removed prior. New slots need to
be cut approx. 3/8’ up into the frame, and wide enough to accept
the coupler box frame. Heights were also checked using a Kadee coupler gauge. A
1/2" X 1/2" redwood (or any wood will do) was used to back up
the Kadee coupler
and act as the mount.
Measure across the width of the opening of the
frame, and cut two pieces to length. Once you have assured yourself
that your new hole for the coupler is at the proper height, glue this
block of wood onto the end of the frame. Once dried, insert the coupler
+ box frame (all pre-assembled), and drill a small hole into the wooden
block and insert a small #2 screw into this (see photo: This is of an earlier Hartland Mack engine, which
has the same basic frame and cab as “Sparky”). A small piece of styrene should be cut and glued
over the holes left that held the original “Sparky”
coupler.
22. The cab
should now be secured to the frame.
Recall that 1/2 inch was added to the cab height.
A #6 X 3/4" brass wood screws were used. The one end hood that
will not hold the batteries can now be secured to the frame. Glue was
used. Some small angle (brass) was also used to hide the outer edges of
the floor and sidewalls, as there was a small gap. Glue in place and
touch up with some red paint. Also, this is good time to paint all of
the frame deck, sides and floor with black paint.
23. The brake
stand was also glued in at this point. Since this model will only have
one control area, only one brake stand is needed. The headlights were
assembled and glued into place. Test and be sure your hood can still be
taken off relatively easily.
24. The door
that was removed earlier, was painted red on the inside and green on
the outside. Also a hole was drilled for a door
knob to be added. A small round headed brad was
glued in place that resembles a doorknob. Glue this door into place.
26. Paint the model
cab and hoods. A dark green paint was used for this model.
27. Clear
styrene was added into the front and door window areas.
Roof
28. So far the roof
cleats; boards and roof have been painted. One LRP 004, Trolley Base + Pole were assembled. The
base was painted red (like the roof) and the pole black. Do not paint
the wheel where it will contact the overhead wire. The trolley boards
were drilled to accept the trolley base mounting plate. Also, smaller
trolley boards were used (as for the width) and now of course the
trolley hook legs stuck out too far for this. We wanted the hooks to be
high, so when next to a boxcar or other tall equipment, the pole will
not interfere should it be in the hooked position. The legs of the hook
were bent inwards (toward each other) slightly and then holes for the
mounting pins were drilled, and the hooks then glued onto the boards.
This was all assembled and glued onto the cab roof, and the pole
inserted into the base hole. This should swivel freely.
Next installment: completion
New handrails, battery switch, interior details
(cab seat, controller, bench, …) Grab irons up to roof. Final
paint. Rope for pole. Look for these in the next installment.
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