Overhead Line Repair Car continued
page 2 of 2
Products used in this section:
Evergreen “V-Grooved
Siding”
Ozark Miniatures -
“Flywheel w/Brake Assembly” #OL-805-4
Trackside Details –
Brake Valve
Trackside Details -
Brake Cylinder (TD-156)
Trackside Details -
Air Tanks + Valve (TD-149)
Trackside Details -
Air Tank Ends (TD-59)
Trackside Details -
Small Pipe Fittings (TD-53)
“AAA” battery + “AAA”
battery holder + on/off toggle switch, (available at most hardware
stores)
When we last left, the cab area, was being
painted… After checking the ceiling height many times, it
was decided that it was too low. The ceiling height was about 6 scale
feet.
Some drastic measures were taken. All the V
grooved styrene was first removed. In it’s place, new material
(same V grooved styrene) was placed onto the cab. Only this time, when
the materials were cut, a 1/2 "(1 scale foot) was added. This not
only pushed the ceiling height up, but also increases the window
heights as well.
On any railway car, an open doorway adds to the
realism. The doorway to be “opened” was carefully cut out
and the door set aside. Some wooden filler pieces were glued to the
bottom of the door to stabilize it.
On the cab interior, Trackside
Details offers a brake stand, which
in order to be about the correct height, some brass rod was added and
glued in place. Other interior details will be added as time
allows (controller, glazing, hand brake, motorman’s stool,
etc…).
More exterior paint was applied to the entire
car. A new Crouse Hinds Streetcar Headlight LRP #007 was added to the front,
along with the Ohio Brass Trolley Catcher LRP #006. Recall we are using the
original headlight on the backside, although a new LED LRP #202 was installed. These
are operated off a battery, which is contained in the tower’s
closet or tool locker. A small switch was installed under the car. The
original headlight lens from the car was re-used on the rear headlight.
The contrast from the front to rear headlights is an interesting touch.
In the meantime, a new reel for the trolley wire
was made by using a small plastic reel from a roll of wire that was on
hand. This was cut in two places, removing a 1/2" from the width.
It was then re-glued together, some wood pieces added to the outside
and the inner faces of the reels as well. These were then lightly
painted. Instead of scribe marks (and these would be deep on a wooden
reel), they were marked out with a heavy pen. Some hand graphics
were added to the side to make it appear it came from brand XX Wire Co.
For the “copper” trolley wire, the local hardware store
stocks 22-gauge wire. This was rolled onto the reel evenly, and many
rows were built up to resemble a 1/2 full reel of wire.
The reel assembly also was in need of some sort
of brake, and Ozark Miniatures sells a Flywheel w/Brake
Assembly (OL-805-4). The brake pedal
itself needed a small platform built so the pedal would be positioned
in a manner that would look authentic.
The under floor details: The following Trackside Details products were used: Brake
Cylinder (TD-156), Air tanks + Valve (TD-149), Air Tank Ends (TD-59)
and Small Pipe Fittings (TD-53). The air
tank ends require a small piece of pipe or other round materials to
make this look like an air tank. Again, off to the hardware store,
where they have small copper connector fittings (1/2" X 1")
and they fit nicely. Some piping was added and the Trackside Detail
pipefitting came in handy. Wooden brackets were made for the airtanks
and metal straps to hold up the larger one. The brake cylinder was
mounted off to one side, and if one has the levers to add to this, the
levers will be in the center of the car.
The tower: After
receiving paint, the “AAA” battery would need to be hidden,
(for LED in the headlights). In the tower structure, there is a small
closet; this will be used to hide the battery. The Hartland guy was added...
playing his harmonica as he inspects the overhead wire for any needed
repairs.
The side boards on the car, were weather beaten,
one board cut a little shorter than the others, and repainted.
A small piece of the rear end hand railings were
kept. A hand brake may be applied to this later.
The rear Coupler LRP #002 was drilled and the
small pin attached using a small left over piece of chain. A small
carrier bar was produced. This was made from a small square tubing, and
has a small radius (hand) bent into it. Two legs were attached to the
carbody (one at each end). A wooden piece was made as an anchor for the
pivot on the coupler.
The front Eclipse
Fender lifeguard LRP #003, assembled previously) was mounted. “Gorilla
Glue”, was used, due to the fact it hangs on longer brass wire
from the bumper which is higher than a normal streetcar bumper is. At a
later date, some straps may be added from under the cab forward to
steady this. It should be noted that the car ran in a display for two
days, almost continuously, and it never fell off. The chain posts were
not used, as one of them would have stuck into the doorway and step
area, two small wire hooks were installed into the front wooden bumper.
The Trolley Pole +
Base LRP #004, (assembled previously) was added to the roof. The two
LEDs were wired (note the Longer leg of the LED is the positive) and
the on/off switch was located under the carbody. This will allow the
headlights to be “ON” even when the power to the car is
shut off. If you decide to go with a DCC system, or other control, this
may not be a problem.
Items to complete are: the trucks, the interior, graphics, and some general
working items on the deck, old and new span wires, trolley wire
splices, tools. etc…..
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